Housing

As a Beveren can weigh up to twelve pounds, the Animal Welfare Act specifies a cage size at least five-square feet, but bigger is definitely better. The more room your bunny has, the happier it will be. hollywoodfoodstyling

Whether you decide to house indoors or out, you can choose a ready-made enclosure from your local pet supply store, build your own, or construct a hybrid of store bought and homemade. A multi-level design, connected with ramps, will increase the size of your cage without taking up valuable floor space.

Outdoor housing must provide protection from the wet and cold of winter and heat of summer. A hutch made of heavy wood with wire sides and a waterproof roof, raised off the ground and facing southeast, is ideal. Include an enclosed area inside the hutch to give your bunny a place to hide when scared, or get out of the weather. Even if a bunny can’t be reached by a menacing predator, it can still be scared to death, or thrash violently enough in fear to break its own neck or back.

Indoor housing needn’t be as utilitarian, but must still be safe, secure and comfortable. Never place an indoor cage near a window or any place your rabbit may be in a draft. Locations near stoves, radiators and fireplaces, as well as gloomy corners, should also be avoided.

Wire-bottomed enclosures allow droppings to fall into a catch pan for easier cleaning, but the wire is hard on bunny feet and can cause sores. Litter-box training is an acceptable alternative if you’re willing to try. As a rabbit ages, its attention span and ability to learn increases, so training may take longer with babies and juveniles. Be aware, however, that a rabbit will nibble its litter, so never use clumping materials, or pine or cedar chips. Litter made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper will be your best bet. palosverdeslifestyle

Bedding can be straw or hay. Cage mounted food and water containers will help avoid spilling and contamination. Cages should be cleaned every couple of days, and bedding changed weekly.

Feeding

A pet rabbit will generally try to eat anything you give it, but its digestive system is very delicate. Care must be taken to prevent common and potentially dangerous digestive disorders

First and foremost, all rabbits need a constant supply of fresh water, changed daily. A rabbit is not able to draw water from the foods it eats. A gravity-fed, cage-mounted bottle will help prevents spills and contamination, but you may need to spend a couple days training your rabbit to use it. If you allow your rabbit to roam outside of its cage (rabbit-proofed areas only) make sure they are able to get back into their cage to drink, or provide another water source.

A constantly supply of hay is also essential, providing important fiber and giving your rabbit something to munch on all day. Timothy hay works best. Alfalfa can also be used, but is lower in fiber and higher in calcium, too much of which can be harmful.

Next is a good quality rabbit chow. This should be given in limited quantities unless you have a pregnant or nursing doe, or a baby less than four months old, in which case a constant supply provides the calories and nutrients their bodies need. Look for a chow that is 16 – 18% protein, no less than 16% fiber and 2 – 3% fat. Feed your Beveren about 1/8 of a cup for every five pounds of weight daily. Never buy more than your rabbit will eat in a month, as pellets can mold and spoil if stored longer. For more info Please visit these site:-  https://www.stephenfrazee.com
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Food treats make great rewards for cooperative training and can supplement a daily diet. Kitchen scraps are ok, but remove any pits or seeds and never give your rabbit anything close to spoiling. Lettuce, which contains lactucarium, is also a bad choice. Lactucarium can cause severe diarrhea, which can be fatal to rabbits. A frequently changing diet, or new foods added too fast, can also cause problems.